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Desert Museum Visit: Fascinating and a little scary

By Leyla Knight


For one environmental journalist visiting the Sonoran Desert yesterday, it was like “stepping onto Mars”and it brought reminders of a global warming catastrophe that could inundate much of the Earth.

John Fialka, environmental reporter for the Wall Street Journal, experienced his Mars sensation during a visit to the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum by members of the Society of Environmental Journalists.

The visit also included a close encounter with a creepy, crawler desert dweller , a charge that some environmental reporters do not do justice to their beat, and a contemporary version of an ancient native-American ritual incorporating Christianity with tribal religion.

Fialka joined an estimated 200 other members of the society in touring the museum on the outskirts of Tucson to see at first hand the desert’s sentinel-like saguaro cactus and other unique vegetation and wildlife, including the fleet-footed road runner, cactus wren and the porker-like javalina.

“Ever since I got here, I have been mesmerized by the scenery,” Fialka said in an interview as the day cooled down a bit from the scorching high 90s. “It’s like walking on Mars.”

Fialka arrived from his Washington, D.C., base flush from an environmental beat success. The Journal had run that day, in its coveted page-one right-hand column, his story on global warming and the lucrative trade in “pollution permits“ that has mushroomed to counter the phenomenon.

Fialka said global warming is the “hottest story“on the environmental beat with predictions that temperatures will rise significantly in the next century. Some scientists predict that the polar icecaps will melt with the increased temperatures and that this could cause oceans to rise, inundating and obliterating many coastal cities and even entire countries.

“They are talking about a major sea level rise in the next century unless we do something about it now,” he said. “If we can’t do something right now, we may not be able to do something later because the climate is so huge it has a kind of inertia. Once it gets into a certain mode, it’s hard to get out of it.”

Global warming is thought to be caused by green house gases generated by animals, through manure, and by humans burning fossil fuels, such as gasoline in their cars. Green house gases are those emitted gases such as carbon dioxide, which trap the hot temperatures in the atmosphere. This causes a build up in the earth’s overall temperatures.

Fialka said that the challenge in covering the global warming story is that it is a complex issue, which deals with climate changes. And while meteorologists have very complex, state of the art equipment the climate and global warming issues are “poorly understood even by the experts.”

Opened in 1952, the museum, is non-profit, privately owned and funded. It serves as an educational institution to increase the public’s awareness of the Sonoran Desert and the endangered species in this area. It is a combination of a museum, zoo botanical garden and nature trail all in one. Yesterday’s events were held in various places on the museum grounds.

Joel Grossman, an SEJ member and free-lance writer since 1979, said that some reporters do not do justice to the environmental story. “They look for cheap sounds bites, rather than getting into the complicated issues,” he said in an interview. He said he does not write many environmental pieces because he finds them difficult to market and sell.

In one of the performances for the group, Bernaldo Valencia, 68, a Yaqui elder from Mexico, clutched a drum decorated with colored hand-drawings and a wooden flute. He sat in the shaded heat while another Yaqui tribal member, Felipe Molina, from Tucson, described deer songs.

These ceremonial songs have been passed down through several Yaqui generations. Molina, now in his mid-thirties, started learning these songs from his grandfather’s friend when he was five. The deer songs used to be performed in an all-night vigil before the deer was killed. Today, they are usually performed during the day or on weekends.

(Photo: Leyla Knight)
Bernaldo Valencia, a Yaqui tribal elder and deer singer, plays the song of the red cardinal at the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum. He learned this song from his father-in-law as a young man. This song is usually performed on Holy Saturday afternoon during the Easter ceremony. According to Yoeme traditions all living things have a special song.

“The songs are to honor the deer we are going to kill,” Molina said. “We added this to our Christian religion. We see the ancient and new coming together.” However, deers are no longer killed in the ceremonies, which are now performed to show thanks, or tribute to saints, people, or anything in the universe, Molina said.

“A family could request (a deer song ceremony) for having a good year financially or health wise. It is to pay our respects and give thanks.” The songs are still performed in the Yoeme language.

Molina, who was involved in educating the young Yoeme children about deer songs and dances said that “from our songs and traditions we learn.” While working with the children, from 1980 to 1990, Molina found them to be very interested and receptive to learning. He translated all the deer songs into English so the children could understand them.

SEJ members also had a taste, so to speak, of a hot, spicy business during the museum visit. They met with Josefina Duran-Meza, who launched a chili exporting business in 1968 in Santa Cruz, Arizona. It started out as a suggestion from her banker, and is now a successful international company. Working alone and with her then 17-year-old son, she built the company into a booming business. She still purchases wild Chiltepine chilies from villagers in the Sierra Madre mountains in Mexico and is now selling them to two companies, one in Texas and the other in California.

Known as the “Queen of Chiltepines,” Durnan-Meza relies on the villagers during the harvest season in the months of October, November and December to pick the chiltepines one chili at a time by hand. It is a tough and risky business, she said.

“When there is no rain, there is no crop so no work and no money for that year,” she said.

(Photo: Leyla Knight)
"Chili Queen" Josefina Duran-Meza, with a young chiltepine chili plant. The chilies usually grow to about 1/4 of an inch in size. They are rated one of the hottest chilies in the world. Her 29 year-old company is the only chiltepine international exporter in the Cumpas, Sonora area.

Duran-Meza prefers the wild chiltepines over commercially grown ones because they are less prone to diseases. And many commercial crops fail because they lack the many required elements to successfully grow them.

Duran-Meza’s son Antonio Heras Duran has been researching new methods to help him grow his dream chiltepine farm. Chiltepines, which are one of the hottest chilies are sometimes nicknamed as the “Bird Peppers,” Heras said. Many birds love the chili even though they can not digest it, he said. But their stomach acid works on the outer shell of the chili seed and when the bird extracts the seeds “it is already encircled with fertilizer (from the birds’ droppings),” he said. “Usually birds do this on a tree, which allows the chili seeds to grow in shade which is necessary for a successful crop,” Duran said.

The SEJ members also learned of the frustrations of tribal elders in keeping tribal traditions alive among the new generation of native-American youth.

Frances Manual told the gathering that her grandfather, who died in 1938, predicted that “kids will be born with no ears.” An oral historian, Manual has spent the last 17 years trying to revive the Tohono O’odham’s traditional culture through talks and lessons in basket weaving.

Unfortunately, says Manual, her grandfather’s prediction came true.

“Most of the kids I see have gone too far, they think what they see on TV is real and what we the elders say is not true,” she said in an interview later. “They don’t listen.”

With the children living in a “fantasy world” of television and other pop culture entertainment, Manual says she finds it very difficult to interest them in learning.

“When you’re talking to them, you can see that their minds are way off, most of them aren’t listening unless you say something funny,” she said.

While SEJ members dined at the museum under a star-studded sky, an unexpected fuzzy guest made a noticeable entrance. As a small tarantula wondered among the tables, several journalists sought refuge by standing on their chairs. The eight-legged, uninvited guest kept the crowd’s attention as it climbed onto a rock wall in a corner of the dining area. Gawking journalists pointed their fingers at the creature and and whispered, “It’s a tarantula.” Tarantula’s bites can be painful but are harmless to humans.


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